My First Post


I have a blog. 

Blog is a dumb, awful, ugly word. 

Blog, blog, blog, blog, blog!

K, over it now. 

Must deal with it. 

Must deal with lots of things. 

Like being an hour and a half from the closest place that has decent surf. 

Let me rephrase.

Like being an hour and a half from the closest place that has decent surf for a combined total of 6 months a year. 

Give or take. 

However, the distance provides a plethora of positives: changing scenery, meaningful conversations, meaningless conversations, good laughs, red bull swigs, stops for gasoline - that ought fill 'er up, snickers bar breakfasts, photo ops, sneak peaks, and candy treats. 

However, the distance also means no surf checks. Which means the probability of scoring is roughly the same as the probability of getting skunked. The score to skunk ratio is always 1:1. Luckily for me, I have had more scores than skunks this last stint of surfing in the PNW. Thank you wave gods. 

I can't stop thinking about surfing. It consumes me. I dream of it. I am constantly thinking of how to become a better surfer. When a surf video is on I rewind parts just to see what type of position the dude had his leg in, or whatever. It is my life. I am a surfer. But you'd never know it. 

What do I do?

Get a job? Yes.

Go surfing? Yes.

How to do both? 

This is the conundrum. 

Until next time...

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