I am...

I am a surfer.

But...

I do not drive a rusty VW bus. I only say "brah" on occasion. You will not see me dominating any lineups with fins-out snaps. My rambling dialect is not heard in the water. I am not associated with any local crew. You will not find me camped out at G-Land for months on end. The beach is nowhere near my home. I have never been released from a barrel. My surfing is decent at best.

But...

I live to surf. I live for ice cream headaches at 7am. I live for tunnel vision wether I come out or not. I live for that one backhand top turn that sends buckets of spray out the back. I live for a solid frontside cutback off the foam ball. I live for numb pinky fingers. I live for risky drives in search of surf. I live for severe beatings by the ocean. I live for pre-session peanuts and post-session beers. I live in hopes of improving my surfing. I live to surf. I live for this...