2:04am. Can't sleep. And my usual get-to-sleep remedy -- envisioning myself inside a barrel, looking out -- isn't working. Lots on my mind.

I'm wondering what the swell is going to be doing tomorrow and what the wind is going to be doing and how the wind will affect the swell and which spots will work with that combination of wind and swell and period and tide and direction. It's a time consumer.

I'm wondering how many times, if any, The Bay will break while I'm on the Valley Isle in February. Thoughts of corduroy lines funneling in fuel insomnia.

I'm wondering when my frontside cutbacks will get more consistent and what it is that I'm doing that makes surfing frontside so hard for me.

I'm wondering when I'll get that quintessential inside out barrel shot.

I'm wondering what's next with this little career path of mine. The momentum and positive feedback feel good.

I'm wondering all kinds of stuff.

And it's keeping me up.


  1. Brah just move to the ocean, somewhere where the waves are consistant. Not Oregon. Go to sleep. Wake up. And surf. Surf Eat Sleep. Maybe work here and there. No other way to live, if you just want to surf. Maui sounds about right.

  2. g'luck. i missed the bay going OFF by a day on my last trip.