Thoughts 'n' Shots

A few shots from my California/Baja trip as well as a few excerpts from my notebook. 

"Thank you Cristo! 

He checks the surf every morning via 4-wheeler. Pulling up next to the decrepit looking lighthouse overlooking third point he decides wether to head out immediately or sit and chat with other various surfers clearly hoping  to experience a half-mile miracle. 

Cristo, an expat Aussie with the most turquoise eyes you've ever seen, and Babs -his Canadian wife - lived above second point here at punta pequeña every summer for 8 years. Then they got their property. 15 years they have been here learning, studying and befriending this anomaly of a pointbreak. And it shows. Cristo knows just where to sit, which wave is going wide and when sets are about to start showing out the back. And he gave me the wave of my life today. 

Before I proceed you need to understand that there is zero, and mean zee-ro, surfing etiquette applied in the lineup here. You name it, it's commonplace: snaking, going under priority, hustling, mind games, guys yelling, "go go go", just to get you to go on a sub-par wave. And then there's the locals and the "locals". Need I say more? Wether or not they've lived here for 15 years like Cristo n Babs or come set up at some point annually, these people act like you don't exist. So, when Cristo looked over his left shoulder and pointed directly at me, I knew my hour long dry spell was coming to an abrupt halt. 

All I did was sit there. I knew it was mine. Cristo knew it was mine. Santi knew. The lineup knew. The fish and sea lions and sharks knew. Everybody fuckin' knew. When the time was right I simply turned, took a few strokes and dropped in. 

When you first drop in to a wave like this it's somewhat surreal. You immediately hit the jets. Up down, up down, up down. Should I turn yet? No! Pump! Up down, up down, up down. Speed check.  Deep bottom turn. Snap! Crack! Pop! Shiiiit! Go go go. GO GO GO. E-brake! GO! Float a small section. Speed check...

It goes on like that until you fall or the inside section closes out. It's a long time. Hundreds of yards, easy. And it's the type of wave that makes you a better surfer and doesn't just make you feel like a better surfer. It's a magical wave and that's all there is to it.

For a surfer like me, a wave like that is a gift. So, again, thank you Cristo."

"We're here. The promised land. Baja. I love this spot. It feels like home. Santiago's here. Kelly is in Todos. I continually see Steve from morro bay/todos. Fernando and his family live right up the beach. This is it. Sure the wave is a little mushy but it's fun and looooong. Santiago is so rad. He instantly asked about Nick and Morgan by name. He said they were both great people and that Morgan reminded him of his brother. He said he had a great connection with them. That made me happy. Santiago is a truly amazing human being. He's bright and honest and passionate and happy. We will be friends forever. The waves were fun. Santi said the wind was howling all day and it was kinda obvious. Choppy all over. But as the sun died so did the wind. The last few waves were nice and clean. My new 5'10 quad from chris was the perfect board for out here. Flat and fast and responsive. I'm stoked on how fun that thing is to surf. Tomorrow will be another learning day. I doubt I'll surf anything else until we get to conejo on, well, whenever we get there. I don't know what day it is. That's such a great feeling. I'm feeling lonely though. Even with one of my best friends camped outside my truck, I'm very lonely in my heart. I think about my mrr. I miss Megan so incredibly much and life seems abstract without her. It doesn't seem real. I know that my love for her is true and real. I love her with my whole heart. It's hard to see her hurt. I hate it. I hate the responsibility. I tell her I love her and want to be together again someday. Whenever that day is, I'm sure "someday" will come. I just pray it's not too late. Pictures before surfing tomorrow. Buenos noches."

"Southern California is cool, I guess. It's cooler when you have good, true friends to hang out with while visiting. Without them, I would be lost. I'm lost in other ways, but here, now, I feel good."


  1. these are great shots.... it seems as though you are getting better and better.

  2. Cali shot #6 is $! Nice work! Nice trip. Keep surfin. Keep shotin. Keep stokin.