No Trespassing

If it is considered a secret spot and I know about it, well, it ain't no secret.

I was fortunate enough to score two not-so-secret secret spots over the past four days. The first spot, a reeling left reef, had a machine like quality as the sets bent in. We surfed this remote break two days in a row with oily slick four to eight foot sets coming every 15-30 minutes. Sure, that is a bit of a wait for a 3-5 wave set, but oh so worth it. Especially with just two of us out. 

The next two days were a welcome surprise. Partly sunny skies and light east winds allowed my favorite wave in the region to show itself after a few recent games of hide and seek. With the wrong conditions, one would wonder why a trail even exists to reach this little cove. But, on the right day, it is all too apparent why a few salty dogs have spent their time making the entrance as accessible as possible, but still low-key: a perfect wave. I was fortunate enough to meet the two unselfish gentlemen responsible for constructing the seemingly endless maze of ropes and ladders it takes to access this gem. While using the aforementioned climbing instruments the day before, I mentioned to my comrade something along the lines of, "Man, I wish I could buy a case of beer for the person that built these." Well, my wish was granted. We left them a short thank you letter and some cash. Hopefully they put it to good use. 

Now, riddle me this. Why would anybody put places like this up on the Internet? I'm not talking about pictures or short tales like this, but detailed directions, the exact location, turn by turn instructions. It baffles me. After all, a picture of a wave is just a picture of a wave if you keep the location secret. Sure, there are identifiable landmarks, but if you keep your trap shut, secret spots might keep they're confidentiality. Just a thought.  

Those two dudes told us that there were twenty-eight people surfing there the day after Christmas. No, that is not a typo, twenty-eight people. That made me sad. Like a fellow blogger said, "Loose lips sink ships." 

Ain't that the truth. 

But, who am I to talk? I'm seen as part of the problem, being a photographer and all. Now, what to do with all these pictures?


  1. You can email me a link to `em. Haha.

  2. i counted 16. pretty much everyone could surf. it's when you get a few ruhtards out that a seemingly manageable lineup gets crowded.

  3. true. true. still seems like a lot though.

  4. That's one thing I love about OR. The Beach Bill. You should try surfing here sometime : )-

  5. haha. weds/thurs/fri for sure!